digilib@itb.ac.id +62 812 2508 8800

Hydrolyzed Collagen (HC) has been found in various cosmeceutical products with the claim of good moisturizing properties at the stratum corneum layer of the skin, decreasing dryness, laxity, and wrinkles. Unfortunately, HC has a lower skin permeation due to its hydrophilic structure and relatively high molecular weight. In the cream dosage form containing HC, it is hard to pass through the stratum corneum in the skin. This research aimed to formulate an HC from bovine placenta collagen into the cream dosage form with three different chemical penetration enhancers (CPE), i.e., propylene glycol (PG), isopropyl myristate (IPM), and oleic acid (OL). Each HC cream was characterized by organoleptic, viscosity, and pH. The stability test centrifuge, room temperature, and freeze-thaw methods were also determined. The skin penetration of HC cream-loaded CPE was evaluated using the Franz diffusion penetration test. The results of the penetrated HC cream were calculated as the percentage of the total protein accumulated in the sample. In addition, the activity of the HC cream using CPE excipient was tested in Vitro using collagenase inhibition assay. The organoleptic results for each HC cream showed a cream-beige with a unique odor. The pH from the HC cream, HC cream with PG, HC cream with IPM, and HC cream with OL were 6.87, 6.75, 6.51, and 5.38, respectively. The viscosity obtained from the HC cream, HC cream with PG, HC cream with IPM, and HC cream with OL were 103.500 cps, 100.205 cps, 103.700 cps, and 107.693 cps, respectively. The HC cream was also stable at room temperature and centrifuge. The results of the penetration HC cream showed the percentage of total protein of HC cream, HC cream with PG, HC cream with IPM, and HC cream with OL were 52.44 ± 0.68%, 50.68 ± 0.43%, 58.71 ± 0.66%, 60.49 ± 0.93% respectively. The percentage of collagenase inhibition results were found in HC cream, HC cream with PG, HC cream with IPM, and HC cream with OL had 20.02 ± 0.01%, 19.28 ± 0.06%, 23.10 ± 0.01%; 24.51 ± 0.01%. The best CPE excipients to improve the penetration of HC cream were OL and IPM, which penetrated significantly more than the HC cream.