Perpustakaan Digital ITB

Acne vulgarisis a chronic dermatosis condition of skin’s pilosebaceous follicles. The growth of acnecausing bacteria (P. acnes, S. aureus and S. epidermidis) are reported as an example of acne vulgaris pathogenicity. The trend of formulating non-antibiotic active ingredients in facial skincare products are rapidly growing, including in Indonesia. Along with the trend, speculations of anti-acne activity exhibited by these active ingredients starts to emerged in conjunction to its antimicrobial potency. However, antimicrobial activity potency of these active ingredients is not yet proven especially against acne-causing bacteria. Objective: This literature review aimed to serve information regarding the use of non-antibiotic active ingredients in facial skincare products of acne vulgaris treatment covering its antimicrobial activity against acne-causing bacteria, international regulation and standard analytical determination method. Methods: A systematic literature review involving 92 literatures is performed. Results: Benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, salicylic acid, retinaldehyde, niacinamide, and probiotics and its derivatives shown a promising antimicrobial activity against acne-causing bacteria. According to regulation issued by BPOM RI, ACD and EC, regulation has only covers three out of six studied non-antibiotic active ingredients. Lastly, International standard analytical determination method of each non-antibiotic active ingredients is not yet issued except for one studied active ingredient. Conclusion: (1) Six non-antibiotic active ingredients proven to exerted a beneficial antimicrobial activity (2) Three studied non-antibiotic active ingredients has been regulated and no current regulation applied for the use of probiotics in cosmetic; (3) International standard analytical determination methods are not yet issued for studied active ingredients except salicylic acid.